The 4 C’s : Carat, Cut, Clarity and Color

The carat influences the price of the diamond dramatically. The reason is simple, if excavating for diamonds, the odds of finding a one carat diamond is approximately one out of a million. To produce a 1.00 carat finished round diamond, you need to mine a 2.00 carats rough diamond.

What is the best size for me?

1. Keeping in mind that the diamond industry often pushes to sell big diamonds of 1 carat and larger, it is important to understand that with jewelry, watch making or gemology, bigger is not always better. Your choice of diamond must fit with your personal taste and lifestyle. Several renowned jewelry designers choose to only use smaller diamonds under 0.25 carats to make their designs.
2. At Avalon Diamonds & Jewelry and Titanium Era Inc., we believe diamonds over 4 carats (10.4 millimeters) should be avoided on an engagement ring, unless you do not mind having to take extra precautions every time you are wearing it.
3. For sportive and active people, we recommend rings with a lower profile, incorporating stones that do not weigh more than 0.50 carats (5.2 millimeters). Aircraft grade titanium tension settings will protect diamonds very effectively. Also gold and platinum “closed settings” are very efficient at protecting stones. (Check charts below for more information about the different types of settings).
4. Smaller fingers and hands should choose smaller sized stones to obtain a balanced look. A 1.00 carat diamond on a size 3.5 finger will look much larger and bulkier than on a size 8.5 finger.
5. Click on the link to read and print out the Carat versus dimension chart for each diamond shape.
6. Check the Security versus type of setting chart below, it will give you an idea about the different types of settings.

Security VS type

Gemologists usually consider the cut to be the most important of the 4 C’s although few customers can see it. Even for a trained eye it is difficult to sort a very good cut, compared to an excellent cut. Most diamonds from a reputable establishment have a good cut or better. As you will see below diamonds are graded from Poor to Ideal.

The cut, or proportion, of a diamond is measured in percentages relative to the diameter of its girdle. The girdle diameter of each diamond is always considered 100%. Example: The girdle of a diamond measures 10 millimeters (100%). The table measures 5.6 millimeters. The total depth measurement is 6.1 millimeters. The diamond would be described as having a table of 56% and a depth of 61%. The table and depth percentages are the key to determining the best proportions.

The ratio between the depth and the width of the diamond will determine how the light will be reflected back to you. The most light it reflects the better the cut is rated.

According to Marcel Tolkowsky (Mathematician and gem enthusiast) who, in 1919 developed the round brilliant cut, the ideal dimensions are as follows:

• Table percentage: 53%
• Depth percentage: 59.3%
• Pavilion angle: 40.75 degrees
• Crown angle: 34.5 degrees
• Pavilion depth: 43.1 %
• Crown depth: 16.2 %

Unfortunately Tolkowsky’s measurements do not include the girdle. The girdle is what secures the stone in the setting, a sharp girdle is fragile and brittle. A very thin or larger girdle is necessary to set a stone in any ring or jewelry piece.

A diamond's ability to reflect light determines its display of fire and brilliance. Diamonds are usually cut with 58 facets, separate flat surfaces. These facets follow a mathematical formula and are placed at precise angles in relation to each other. This relationship is designed to maximize the amount of light reflected through the diamond and to increase its beauty.

In many cases the visual differences from one classification to the next are so small they may be indiscernible to the naked eye. Science has produced sophisticated machinery that can measure every aspect of a diamond’s proportions. It is this precision that allows such strict standards to be defined. These guidelines give you the ability to not only make a selection regarding cut but to understand the underlying science upon which it is based. In any case a brilliant and scintillating diamond is ultimately the goal.

The lowest score becomes the overall cut grade. In order to classify each diamond with an overall cut grade the lowest assigned grade for any individual characteristic is always used. For example: If the table percentage falls within Ideal yet the depth percentage is in the Very Good range, the diamond is classified as Very Good.

The proportions are not the same for every shape. Many of the diamond shapes require their own guidelines in order to achieve maximum beauty. Due to the mathematical differences inherent in different shapes, the table and depth guidelines are formulated to maximize fire and brilliance. Although the numbers may be different, the goal is the same: a magnificent display that highlights the individuality and character of each shape.

Girdle

The girdle is the outer edge of a diamond.

When purchasing a diamond, select one with a girdle that is not Extremely Thin nor Extremely thick. It usually has a frosted appearance. Many diamonds are also finished with a fully polished or even a faceted girdle. This characteristic does not affect the value of a diamond and is often more a reflection of the diamond cutter's preference. The girdle is rated in terms of thickness. Girdle size is generally defined as Extremely Thin, Very Thin, Thin, Medium, Slightly Thick, Thick, Very Thick, or Extremely Thick. The girdle can also be described as a range of these terms such as Thin to Thick. Avoid either Extremes.

Culet

The culet is the bottom point of the diamond. In many cases this point actually has a very small facet. The culet is referred to in terms that relate to the presence or size of this facet. The culet is generally graded as None or Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, Slightly Large, Large, Very Large, and Extremely Large. Smaller is more desirable.

Polish

This characteristic refers to the finishing or final polishing of the facets, or flat surfaces. Contrary to common belief, diamonds are ground and polished, not chipped away, until they reach their final form. Each facet is carefully fashioned by the diamond cutter to shine and be free from polishing imperfections. The polish of a diamond is graded from Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, to Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a polishing grade of Good or higher.

Symmetry

This characteristic refers to the alignment and positioning of the facets, or flat surfaces. Each facet should be carefully positioned by the diamond cutter in proper proportion and relationship to the other facets. The alignment of each facet should be sharp and precise; improperly joined facet junctions can make a diamond appear uneven. The symmetry of a diamond is graded from Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, to Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a symmetry grade of Good or higher. For titanium tension settings select very good symmetry or better since the stone is more visible than in more traditional settings.

Almost all diamonds contain very tiny natural birthmarks known as inclusions. To determine a diamond's clarity, an expert studies it under 10x power magnification. In addition to internal inclusions, surface irregularities are referred to as blemishes. These two categories of imperfections-inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external)-make up clarity.

The fewer the imperfections, the rarer and more valuable the diamond. Many inclusions are not discernable to the naked eye and require magnification to become apparent. A laboratory-certified clarity rating of SI2 represents the point at which inclusions are technically not apparent to the average naked eye.

Contrary to popular belief, higher clarity does not always mean more beautiful. If the inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, a higher clarity does not really improve the appearance of a diamond but rather the rarity and price. A higher clarity is more desirable and valuable, but knowing that you have selected the right clarity for the right reasons is most important. We recommend a clarity of SI2 or better.

Clarity is graded using a very precise and complex method of evaluating the size, location, and visibility of inclusions. The diagrams to the right show a top view of a round diamond. The inclusions, shown in red, are an approximate example for each clarity rating. The plotted inclusions may not be actual size for display purposes. Remember, the inclusions depicted in red are not visible to the average naked eye until the I1-I3 clarities. Below is the technical clarity scale with a description of each term.

The best color is no color. Diamonds allow light to be reflected and dispersed as a rainbow of color. This light dispersion, or color flash, has no effect on the technical grading of color. The absolute finest colorless stone carries a D rating, descending through each letter of the alphabet to Z, designating a diamond of light yellow, brown, or gray. This body color may be caused by the presence of trace elements, such as nitrogen, within the atomic framework of the carbon crystal. These trace elements are so small that they are scientifically measured in parts per million (ppm). As the body color becomes more intense, the grade for color descends the scale. These gradations are so tiny and precise that discerning a single grade (even by an expert) under less than ideal laboratory conditions is extremely difficult. When directly comparing diamond colors, most consumers are unable to perceive the difference unless the diamonds are at least two or three color grades apart. We recommend selecting a diamond with a color grade of I or better.

When purchasing a large diamond make sure to select side diamonds that are no more than 2 letters apart. i.e. for center stone with color D, do not select side stones lower than G. For color F do not go lower than I.

Fancy Color
It is often surprising to learn that diamonds also occur by rare accidents of nature in shades of pink, blue, green, amber, or even red. These rarely occurring colors are referred to as fancies and are evaluated by a different set of color standards. These standards take into consideration various factors such as hue and saturation. Fancy colored diamonds are the most expensive because of their extreme rarity. Some fancy colors can cost hundreds of thousands of dollars for diamonds of one carat or less!

Fluorescence
Fluorescence is not directly related to a diamond’s color. This separate characteristic refers to the diamond’s ability to fluoresce under ultraviolet (UV) light. The sun emits some UV light, but it is usually not great enough to detect fluorescence. The most common source of UV is a black light. When exposed to UV light, many diamonds will give off a distinctive glowing blue coloration. Although fluorescence may be displayed in various colors, blue is the most common in diamonds. The fluorescence of a diamond is defined by its intensity as either None, Faint, Medium, Strong, or Very Strong. Although fluorescence is a characteristic that can be measured, it is seldom an issue when selecting a diamond. Conservative gemologists will always go with a diamond with the least possible fluorescence.

Diamonds are cut in many different and exciting shapes. The shape of a diamond is often confused with its cut. Shape refers to the basic form of the diamond. Cut or proportions, on the other hand, refer to the ability of each these shapes to reflect light. A round diamond, for example, could have a good cut or a poor cut depending upon its proportions. When it comes to its shape, it is simply a matter of personal taste.

The most popular shape is by far the round brilliant cut.

A diamond report or certificate is the document which acknowledges the quality and measurement of the diamond (the 4 C’s).It is not an appraisal.There are several different institutes (GIA, AGS and many other ones). It is well known that you can find a slight difference in grading from one institute to the other. All our diamonds over 0.23 carat come with a certificate. We recommend having your diamond appraised once you receive it. It will enable you to insure your diamond with your house or car insurance. There are several different institutes (GIA, AGS and many other ones). It is well known that you can find a slight difference in grading from one institute to the other. All our diamonds over 0.23 carat comes with a certificate. To receive an appraisal please cal us at 1-888-656-6564